I can’t believe it’s the final day of LCM! IT has gone by too quickly and I’m already off on another adventure as I write this final review.
It was a chilled final day for me, which couldn’t have been better timed. Up first was Craig Green. It was pivotal collection for Green, who is pitted as one of the brightest future stars in fashion. A collection built around ideas of workwear and utility with strong influences Japanese culture and the samurai – seen in Japanese denim and deconstructed jackets. The large oversized knits complemented the collection, highlighting Green’s signature aesthetic of sculptural shapes – which was furthered by the wooden frames attachted to the model’s backs. Why it can be hard to see the commercial side to Green’s work, it is always impressive; he pushes the boundaries of what menswear is and can be and does so with a concise and strong vision.
Up next on the agenda was Baartmans and Siegels presentation. Now I am still quite new to the brand, having come across it last season for the first time – it was love at first sight. I think what resonates with me so much is this brand’s aesthetic, it just perfectly matches how my own style. They produce classic pieces with a modern masculinity, subtle yet indulgent details lift each piece and their fur-trimmed parkas are just incredible. For SS15 the palette was dark, which as a black lover was A-OK for me, with a rich dark mossy greens and navys on a blend on military and sportswear separates. A mix of heay and lightweight fabrics were tailored to classic British weather with small pops on pattern on accessories for a rounded collection that was accessible.
It was then off to Katie Eary. This season saw the collection leap forward in time with futuristic cowboys with a 70s flare taking to the runway. There were more pop-ups from female models too who were covered in glitter for a space-aged look. Flared bell-bottoms and wide-collared silk-printed shirts offered kaleidoscope porn aesthetic – Eary took inspiration for Rodeo collection from the film ‘The Dallas Buyers Club’. A highlight of the collection was some luxury suede biker jackets with zipper detailing.
After Katie Eary, Burberry presented their menswear Prorsum collection in their usual setting of a Royal park under canopy. It was an extraordinary collection from Burberry in an eruption of colour. Inspired by the work of Bruce Chatwin, there was also heavily typography prints and detailing, rich mixes of texture – denim under trench coats on top of woolen, coloured cropped trousers. There was also the quirk of felt bucket hats with wide floppy brims and rainbow trainers – it’s interesting to see this trend work backwards – trainers-with-anything looks began on the street as part of the revolt against heels (for women) and formality for men and have worked their way into the shows of the biggest labels. Model walked the rainbow runway with large leather totes in vibrant prints in an array of colours offering a refreshing palette for the new year.
We were back in the 70s for the next show, Tiger of Sweden, where the 1979 film ‘The Warriors’ acted as the inspiration. Creating a ‘Tiger Gang’ in homage to the lifestyle presented in the film. I am a huge fan of Tiger of Sweden – their collections are always strong, masculine and easily wearable. They create clothes that are understated but full of subtle detailing. This season was no exception with a collection of classic-with-a-twist separates including contrast-sleeved bomber jackets, iconic slip suits and newer loose shapes. Blurred leaf prints, long overcoats and baseball jerseys all added to the gang-like feel with models taking to the runway in single, double and trio forms – leading up to a whole gang walk for the finale.
It was a whirlwind final two stops for me with quick visits to see the Chester Barrie presentation before making a stop at the Berthold party to congratulate the eponymous designer on his latest offering.
Chester Barrie unveiled another success story, with exquisite tailoring and craftsmanship on fresh and modern madras smoking jackets, blazers and above-the-ankle trousers. Dubbed Rivera Visited, the spring-summer was truly at home in this collection, with two looks taking from, one a relaxed holiday aesthetic with more softer edges, knits and prints and the other a classic Barrie tailoring offering.
At Berthold, SS15 was all about avant-garde sportswear luxe. Inspired by his favourite artists, Berthold produced a collection that was a functional, modern take on streetwear. With a coat, which can become a bag ‘functionality’ was definitely the buzzword of the collection. Outerwear is particularly strong this season with prints designed in collaboration with Tara Langford.