OK, so day two is over, I may already be slightly bleary eyed too – just through lack of sleep… honest. It was a crazy day for day two with lots of tube jumping all over London for some of the biggest shows of this season.
It was an early start over at the Orlebar Brown Floral St Store but one that definitely brighten up any morning and for a multitude of reasons. The order of the day was six=packs and puppies. A winning combo in anyone’s books – four models with a dog – which corresponded to the shorts they were wearing, Bulldog, Dane Setter and Springer – each stood in the window of the store in all their muscle glory to showcase their bodies the new collection to perfection.
The ocean, and everything in and around it, inspired the collection; coral-inspired prints and colour palettes were complemented by digital beach scene prints. There was also a heavily practical element to the collection with toweling used to create crisp polo shirts and shorts. The orange separates were a personal favourite… I’ll take one of them and the bulldog to go.
After that it was time for a morning pick-me-up over at Hunter Gather. The presentation was held in its Wigmore Street store over coffees and croissants. The collections it’s self was much brighter than we’ve seen from Hunter Gather before, with dual inspiration in the form of 70s dance hall and the new Cut Out Matisse exhibition at the Tate. Entitled #Move, the collection was presented on a base of jelly sandals – similar in style to the Agi & Sam show (new trend!). The silhouettes were loose and free, outwear sleeves were pushed up the elbow, trouser lengths were wide and cuffed jogging bottoms where pulled up to three-quarters. The multi-coloured cut outs and bold floral stencils gave the collection a unique energy while the pastel blue suede bomber jacket was an all out winner.
After Hunter Gather it was back over to the Old Sorting Office for Oliver Spencer. Oliver Spencer has always been a favourite of mine and was actually one of the first shows I went to at the very first LCM. The SS15 offering didn’t disappoint with a strong collection that featured Spencer’s signature tailoring with a sportswear element thrown in. Everything was effortlessly wearable and doused in Spencer’s trademark cool. Truly bringing the part to the Collections, Oliver Spencer was inspired by Mexican architect Luis Barragán and showcased the collection to the backdrop of a live samba band. Just incase you were still lost as to the collections themes the finale featured a line up of fully costumed dancers with headdresses galore. Fun in fashion – it’s how it should be.
It was a quick jaunt of map for Hackett’s presentation. Now known for its grand locations, this year’s show was held in the Honorable Artillery Company in East London. Entitled ‘Gentlemen’s Sport’ the collection focused on the British male sporting spectator with an array of looks to support watching sports such as the Regatta, cricket and equestrian events. Hackett’s synonymous tailoring lead throughout on modern slim-fit suiting, there were some looser shirting separates for summer with crisp tailored shorts in bolder colours, matches with suede loafers. A master class in effortless dapper dressing, the collection closes with Jeremy Hackett himself walking the runway with model in the British Army Polo uniform (which is sponsored by Hackett) – luckily they were fresh off a win!
From East to South London next for one of my most eagerly awaited shows, Jimmy Choo. For the first time Jimmy Choo would be presenting their collection in a full runway show. Hosted in County Hall, the runway was held on a round catwalk and the collection boasted a wide range of inspiration. The Jimmy Choo man is on the move, seeking adventure; the collection blended the old with the new, from traditional hand-touched styles with technical finished as well as classic designs such as brogues sitting next to modern, metallic high tops. A new J Boot style was also introduced – a slick hybrid combat-style trainer that mixes sportswear with artisanal sensibilities. The collection was fresh and unfussy and focused on the finer details of design. Denim featured heavily, underpinning the fabric as part of today’s urban uniform.
It was back to central next doe the Duchamp presentation. Held in the stunning, and I mean STUNNING location that is the Rosewood hotel, the Duchamp SS15 collection was mightily impressive. I do have a soft spot for this brand, I love their style and I love what they stand for, Duchamp is an effortless, accessible brand for all men, something I try to make my blog, and to wear their clothes is simply an education in style. Gianni Colarossi split the collection into three sections, the Elegant English Gentry (the modern businessman – workwear), Contemporary Rivera (Summer by the sea – out of office attire) and Summer Eveningwear (what it says on the tin).
It was a sartorial hat trick for Duchamp, the modern workwear was impeccable with some innovative and original ideas – I particularly loved the blue trouser/waistcoat/detailed jacket suit, it was as dapper as hell and something really new for the office. The evening where was as sophisticated as you’d expect from Duchamp, plush silks and velvets combined for an effortless cool aesthetic. The final runway hit was the introduction of seersucker blazers into the Contemporary Rivera range. Finished in unstructured silhouettes with pastel shades, this range offered assured style for any outdoor social engagement.
After Duchamp, Sarah Burton presented her latest offering for Alexander McQueen. It was a radical progression for the label’s menswear offering, which so often looks to the past for inspiration. Starting fresh, Burton still produced the usual immaculate tailoring and craftsmanship that is synonymous with the brand but this season injected a new vigour into the collection. Inspired by Kabuki masks, the collection feature bold, asymmetric tri-tone palettes on suiting and separates. The models all walked in converse-esque trainers and the long overcoats were fastened with high chest bands.
My penultimate stop for the day was one of the biggest shows on the LCM schedule, and one of the most awaited – Moschino. It’s first time showing in London and Jeremy Scott’s first menswear collection (there was a good handful of women’s resort in their too) the collection was an explosion of irreverent fun. Proving that nothing pops quite like fizzy pop, the opening looks, moving on from last season’s MacDonald’s, were emblazoned with Coke-a-Cola branding. A tongue-in-cheek collection, it played on the idea of designer fakes with the word ‘fauxchino’ monogrammed on casual separates. It was logo mania across the board; dollar signs, playing card/Louis V-style, checkerboard logos, and the smiley face all combined to create a riot of colour – there was also a pair of short dungarees that popped up that by God I will own!
My last port of call was back in Waterloo for the Harvey Nichols Presents #BEENTRILL# launch. Held in the awesome venue that is the underground tunnels, the collection is a collaboration between the hashtag-favouring LA collective and seven of Harvey Nichols brands including, Kim Jones, Hardy Amies, Gareth Pugh, Shaun Samson and A. Sauvage, Mr Hare and Linda Farrow. The collection is awesome – it’s a melee of looks in which the randomness is part of the charm, it’s totally conceptual with some great sculptural separates coming from Gareth Pugh. The main line doesn’t drop till December, but to celebrate the launch Harvey Nichols released a collection of special edition t-shirts designed by each designer – all of the staff working the event donning them to showcase on the night… lucky shits, bet they got to keep them. #Jealous.
What a day! Four of the biggest shows on the program done, I am spent. Off to bed to rest…
Find out what happened on Day Three.